We took to the shores today and tested out three new boards. The sky seemed to go on forever and the ocean was harsh, freezing, but amazing. Pulling on my trusty O’Neill wetsuit, I felt the extreme, piercing pain. That feeling somewhere between horrific muscle ache and paddle readiness that can only come out of surfing constantly every single day. I loved it.
The crazy terror that comes from taking on tougher conditions hit me front on. Adrenaline kept me going after that. The boards were great. After a few hours, we didn't want to get out, but it was starting to get choppy and the sharks were surfacing - it was time to leave, much to our disappointment.
Until next time folks!